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Gruyeres is not just for Cheese - The Chateau de Gruyeres

7/3/2015

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I knew at some point during our journey through Switzerland, that we would find the perfect “Heidi” village. It would be filled with alpine charm, traditional chalets, the ringing of cow-bells and scenery straight out of “The Sound of Music”.  You will find just that scene as you enter the small town of Gruyeres Switzerland.  Yes….the place where that yummy cheese is made.

But this time, we weren’t there to learn about cheese making.  We were there to visit the famous Chateau de Gruyeres which presides at the top of hill overlooking the beautiful medieval village of the same name.


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The castle and town are located in the Canton of Fribourg and sits in the foothills of the Alps.  The name Gruyeres was inspired by the French word for Crane “Grue” which was the heraldic crest of the Counts of Gruyeres. 

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Twenty Counts of Gruyeres ruled the area from the 11th to the middle of the 16th century and they built their imposing castle between 1270 and 1282.   Originally, the castle was built in the typical square plan of the fortifications used in Savoy, but by the end of the 15th century, the Counts of Gruyeres entered their “Golden Age” of valor during the Burgundy war and modernization works done at that time turned the fortress into a stately residence.

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Above Photo Credit: http://www.la-gruyere.ch/en/gruyeres-castle.html

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The castle remained the property of the Counts of Gruyeres until the bankruptcy of Count Michel in 1554. His creditors; the Cantons (states) of Fribourg and Bern shared his earldom. From 1555 to 1798 the castle became residence to the bailiffs and then to the prefects sent by the Canton of Fribourg.  The Baroque interior of the castle reflects this period and you will not be disappointed as it is one of the more beautifully restored castle interiors in Switzerland.

The castle tour starts at The Esplanade
which was originally a large, open, level area outside the fortress meant to provide clear fields of fire for the fortress' guns . It was built in the second half of the 15th century by Count Francois 1st and his son Louis.

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The Courtyard with its wooden galleries was constructed in 1586-1587. 

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The Spiral Staircase which is located in the tower was built toward the end of the 15th century. 

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The Kitchen and Guard Room
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The Burgundian Room holds suits of armor and three mourning capes of the Golden Fleece Order.  The capes are part of the war booty captured during the battle of Morat against Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. Charles the bold at the moment of the battle was celebrating the anniversary of the death of his father. 

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The Bailiffs Room would probably have been used by the 50 bailiffs that resided in the castle from 1550 to 1798 as a large study.  The foliage that decorates the walls was painted by Master Cuen in 1685-1686 for Jean-Jacques-Joseph d’Alt and his wife. The bestiary featured in the frieze includes the heraldic Crane.

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The Room of the Counts is dedicated to the last counts of Gruyeres.  Jean 1st (1500 – 1514), Jean II (1514 – 1539) and their wives, Count Michel (1539 – 1554), Father Pierre – illegitimate son of Jean I, and Sir Challant, son-in-law of Jean II.

The canopy bed is 15th century.  The tapestries representing Old Testament stories are 16th century and the iron chest safe is dated 1730.


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The Room of the Beautiful Lucy is named after a legend.  According to the legend, Lucy was a beautiful young woman of simple origins who was loved by Count Jean II and the room is dedicated to her.  The tapestry above the bed representing Alexander’s victory and is based on a cartoon by Charles le Brun and is dated about 1700.  The tapestry above the fireplace of Ulysses meeting Hector in the city of Troy is dated about 1600.

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In 1849, the castle was sold to the Bovy and Balland families who stayed at the castle during the summertime and restored it with the help of their artist friends. 

Corot’s Room is named after Camille Corot, the famous French artist who painted the four medallion paintings in the room.  Around 1852, Daniel Bovy asked his painter friends to decorate the 18th century panels. Berthelemy Menn painted two medallions and H. Saltzmann painted one other.   H. Baron, F. Furet and A. Leleux and his wife also contributed to the room. The sideboard and chairs are in the Louis XV style.


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The Music Room’s paneling and furniture are in the style of Louis XV.  The pianoforte was made by J.W. Braschoss of Geneva, for famous composer Franz Liszt about 1835.  The clock dates about 1760. 

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Furet’s Room is delicately decorated with garlands and rustic paintings by artists Francis Furet and Jules Crosnier dated around 1900.  The furniture is in the style of Louis XV.  

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The Hunting Room

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The Baroque Room displays tapestries with forest scenery made in Flanders at the end of the 17th century.  The windows have heraldic stained glass: the Castella crest 1597 and the Techtermann-Python crest 1595

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The Knights Room was given its name in honor of the wall decoration painted between 1852 and 1862 by the artist friends of Daniel Bovy.  The cycle represents the Gruyeres legends and the history of the Counts of Gruyeres.  Cranes representing the Gruyeres crest adorn the coffered ceiling. The wood furniture was made by Auguste Ansermot at the end of the 19th century.

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The French Style Landscape Garden was designed in the French geometrical style by the Balland family at the end of the 19th century.  The site has been a garden since Medieval times.  The wall and towers of the ramparts that enclose the garden were rebuilt in the 15th century.

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Before you leave the castle, you must walk out on the Esplanade and around the side of the castle to the tiny Chapel of St. John.

The Chapel of St. John was built near the castle in the 13th century. In 1480, Count Louis had the chapel renovated, particularly the central bay area with the stained glass windows which were made in the workshop of Bolaz in Vevey.  The windows show the Baptism of Christ and the Pieta.  The windows also portray the arms and figures of Louis de Gruyeres and his wife.  Fragments of paintings are visible on the vault and sidewalls.  Wooden sculptures of the Pieta and Mary Magdalene are from the second half of the 15th century.  The Altarpiece of Charles V, was created about 1530.


It is obvious from the petite size of the chapel that it was meant originally for the exclusive use of the family of the Counts of Gruyeres.


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From the time you enter Chateau de Gruyeres, you will be taken back in time to imagine castle life in Switzerland’s historic past. Be sure to visit this amazing castle before you go off to learn how to make Gruyeres Cheese! 

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